The Leideckers in Europe!

July 17, 2011 by

For the second summer in a row I have been guiding in Europe based from Chamonix, France.   This year since June 18th my family and I have been living in a small apartment one block from the Aiguille du Midi tram.   I’ve guided 14 days, my wife Gretchen has been working (she’s an architect) from our apartment, and Sascha (8) and Svea (6) are on the “adventure-a-day” program.   Among the highlights so far include climbing at Les Gaillands, the brilliant town cragging area, riding to the top of the Aiguille du Midi, hiking to scenic Lac Blanc, watching World Cup climbing in downtown Chamonix, and “parcouring” (zip lines, etc.) in Le Fayet!

In between guiding and family adventures Gretchen has continued to train for the San Francisco Marathon and I have squeezed in the North Face of the Tour Ronde and the Contamine Vaucher on the Gendarme Rouge of the Aiguille de Peigne.  Guiding highlights have included summits of the Aiguille du Tour, Dent de Geant, Tour Ronde, the Gran Paradiso in Italy and great multi-pitch rock climbing in Italy’s Val d’Aoste and also the Chamonix Valley.  I work four more days and return to Idaho and SMG just in time for the busy month of August!

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New route!

July 14, 2011 by

For those looking for some easy-access moderate routes, ‘Tanline’ is a new 5.8 bolted route located on the SPF 40 crag at Trail Creek.  Below, SMG Guide Drew Daly susses out the line.

SMG Guide Drew Daly on 'Tanline,' a long 5.8 at the new SPF 40 crag out Trail Creek.

East Summit of Heyburn

July 7, 2011 by

On July 3, SMG Guide Marc Hanselman and client James Gilespie topped out on the East Summit of Mt. Heyburn.  This year’s heavy snowpack made for a straightforward day.  Here are some shots of James crushing the route!

The Grand Mogul

June 21, 2011 by

Last Wednesday, SMG Guide Marc Hanselman led clients Erik and Neil up the Boyscout Couloir on the Grand Mogul.  Under bluebird skies, and with great conditions, the group summitted successfully.

Women’s Clinic at the City of Rocks

June 18, 2011 by

This past weekend, SMG Guide Marc Hanselman and Diana Lincoln-Haye hosted a Women’s Rock Climbing Clinic.  The aim of the clinic, as designed by Diana, a recent convert to climbing, was to introduce women to climbing in a fun and laidback environment.  Here are some photos from the event!

Teresa finessing it.

Teresa and Melissa, ready to climb.

Teresa and Mark, learning the basics.

Marc ready for his photo op.

Maggie, cranking hard.

Maggie and Regina taking a quick break.

Getting ready to climb!

More climbing prep.


Group shot!

June 11th Bachelor Party Event at Trail Creek

June 14, 2011 by

SMG Guides Erik Leidecker, Drew Daly, and Katie Bono took this crew out to the Trail Creek crags for one last hurrah before a Sunday evening wedding at Trail Creek.  Congratulations to the Newlyweds! (Click on the photos for better resolution).

Guide Training and Season Kickoff

June 13, 2011 by

This past Thursday and Friday, SMG Guides were hard at work getting ready for the bulk of the 2011 guiding season.  Thursday saw guides refreshing their skills at high-angle rescue scenarios and efficient guiding techniques, while Friday marked the kickoff of the season.  Employees of the Perch and Redfish Lodge, among others, showed up for a day on the Super Slabs.  The trail to the Slabs remains marked by a few large sections of avalanche debris and snow patches, and key parts of the Slabs are still streaming with meltwater, but experienced guides Erik Leidecker, Marc Hanselman, Drew Daly, and Tim Ball knew the right beta to avoid these sections.  For interested parties- the slabs will remain partly wet for a while due to the giant melting snow patch residing at the summit. Highlights of the day included the beautiful weather and Office Manager Jocelyn Plass’s first multi-pitch climbing trip (having generously volunteered to be guided up the slabs by Erik and Intern Guide Katie Bono)! All in all, the pre-weekend activities were a great start to the 2011 climbing season.

Erik high up on the slabs.

Katie learning the ropes from Erik.

Drew awash in a sea of granite.

Drew with clients.

Jocelyn's first multi-pitch, completed!


The Slabs.

The Perch

Avy Debris (And Erik, Tim, and Jocelyn) on the trail.