New Route in the Pioneers: “Sky Pilot”


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SMG guides Marc and Drew climbed what they believed to be a new alpine route out Wildhorse Canyon in the Pioneer Mountains. “Sky Pilot”  IV 5.6-5.8 starts at one of the Wildhorse Lakes 9238′ and climbs the northeast ridge of Peak 11,280′ to the summit. Like many of the ridge/arete routes in the Pioneers, “Sky Pilot” is characterized by generally easy climbing on good quality rock with fantastic exposure. What sets this route apart is the length: about 2000′ feet of 4th and 5th class climbing up an exposed arete! There were several short sections (30-60′) of 5.6 climbing and the boys chose a more difficult finger crack near the top that went at 5.8, but an easier option existed. The Alpine Bender continues!


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