Northeast Ridge of the Devil’s Bedstead West


On August 7th Robb Hamblen and I climbed the Northeast Ridge of the Devil’s Bedstead West in the Pioneer Range.  The route entailed about 1600 feet of 3rd, 4th, and easy 5th class climbing on generally sound rock.  During the last 300 feet the rock quality deteriorated somewhat.  We descended the trail down the Right Fork of Kane Creek, which made for an excellent loop.  Our climb may have been a first ascent, but in a canyon as popular as Kane Creek this would seem unlikely!  I’m continually amazed by the stellar character of the Pioneer Range and the enormous potential for alpine climbing!

Bedstead West

End July 2009 057


End July 2009 065


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2 Responses to “Northeast Ridge of the Devil’s Bedstead West”

  1. pat mcgrane Says:

    After reading Eric’s post, I just had to try the route. My friend Nick Brown and I did it in September, a couple weeks after a big snowstorm. There was still some snow on the top 500 feet. That part was pretty loose. Probably lubricated by snowmelt. It was harder than I expected. We roped up from bottom to top. 12 pitches! The bottom half was solid and really fun. I would say it was 5.6-5.7. The top half was primarily 4th class and loose. All in all, it is a good route. If you stay on the ridge crest, it’s pretty airy. The last pitch has some great exposure.

  2. Erik Leidecker Says:

    Nice Pat! SMG has been doing a lot of climbing and guiding in the Pioneers recently. Check out Marc Hanselman’s blog for more info:

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