Yesterday we ventured out, in hopes of finding a few turns, getting some exercise, and checking out a new zone.  Well, the skiing up high wasn’t bad at all…see for yourself.

We got turns practically off the true summit!  Not bad for the first week of December, although the coverage is still aspect dependent.   The snow is very thin down low…which makes the first part of the approach, and last part of the ski out a little dicey!  Be careful not to snag your ski under some sage brush and do cartwheels.  Lets hope the disturbance this weekend, and the change in jet next week, can push out this sunny weather and bring some snow.

-Clark

SMG guide Drew Daly and I got out yesterday to check out the ice on the lower flanks of Cobb Peak.  The climbing is located at 10,000 feet and we approached through as much as 2.5 feet of snow!  Skiers–none of this snow has faceted and at least for now it looks like a great base!  The ice conditions were thin and wet, but hey, it’s only October! 

There are fixed anchors (3/8′ bolts with Metolius Rap Hangers) at the top and the climbs can be TR’d with a 60m rope.  There is also a set of anchors about 100 feet lookers right of the main flow for a mixed line that isn’t currently in condition.

Approaching the Cobb Ice.

Drew's Alpine Bender Continues!

On Monday Sept. 21 Frank Gould and I climbed the North Face of Mt. Borah.  Although the face looked pretty melted out, it was acutally in great shape with firm snow down low and hard alpine ice up high.   The traverse to the standard finish in the couloir that tops out near the summit was completely melted out.   Instead we opted for the couloir that tops out on  the Northwest ridge, about 200 vertical from the summit.  From the notch at the top of the couloir it’s easy 3rd class to the summit.  We climbed together on firm snow with crampons to the base of the ice.  Then we climbed the ice in 4 pitches to near the top of the couloir.  The ice dead-ended about 100 feet from top-out on the Northwest Ridge, but the climbing was easy 3rd class, albeit loose and ugly!

Most excellent bivy at 10,000 feet with great limestone bouldering!

Frank on the 2nd ice pitch.

Our Route in red. This photo shows how the upper horizontal snowfield doesn't link to the summit couloir.

On August 7th Robb Hamblen and I climbed the Northeast Ridge of the Devil’s Bedstead West in the Pioneer Range.  The route entailed about 1600 feet of 3rd, 4th, and easy 5th class climbing on generally sound rock.  During the last 300 feet the rock quality deteriorated somewhat.  We descended the trail down the Right Fork of Kane Creek, which made for an excellent loop.  Our climb may have been a first ascent, but in a canyon as popular as Kane Creek this would seem unlikely!  I’m continually amazed by the stellar character of the Pioneer Range and the enormous potential for alpine climbing!

July 5: After an ominous start Erik Boe, Jeff Tumelo and I (Erik
Leidecker) managed to summit McGown Peak via the North Couloir.  The route
was melted out at the top and we had to do some legitimate mixed climbing to
get around a crux chockstone!

Our last spring ski mountaineering course of the season drew a packed house.  Sawtooth Mountain Guides co-owner and IFMGA guide Erik Leidecker along with SMG guides Mike Hatch and Zach Crist lead a group of 10 guests for 4 days into the heart of the Sawtooths for some fantastic skiing and skills development.  We had people show up from all over the country – New Jersey, Connecticut, Washington, and California- along with a handful of locals from Sun Valley.  The diverse group of clients with varying backgrounds and abilities created a great learning environment and helped forge new friendships.

Climbing up Big Fatty

Todd rippin Big Fatty

Spring time in the Sawtooths can be a mixed bag of snow conditions and we definitely got a sack full of corn, crust, and powder.  This required us to use at one time or another all that gear we were cursing having to lug around on our backs – ice axe, ski crampons, boot crampons, harness, rope, etc.  The snow pack in the alpine is holding up well with the chutes and couloirs nicely filled in.  Conditions in the alpine during the course were rather winter-like on northerly aspects with 6-8″ new in the chutes and coulees and spring -like on southerly aspects with  light freezes Friday and Saturday nights contributing to mid-afternoon corn cycles.

Snow School 101

March of the ski bums

Even though the weather was less than ideal the group still managed to knock off a laundry list of ski objectives and skill sets.  On Friday, after snow school and ice axe handling techniques, the group split with half climbing up and skiing Big Fatty and the other half climbing peak 10084, rappelling off the summit, and skiing Meadow Bowl.  The Big Fatty group found 6-8″ on a firm base and everybody skied strong and fluid.  On Saturday the clouds veiled the peaks, but even in low visibility the group still managed to ski several nice lines including the spire lined SW face of Williams Peak and after several rappels and a short climb the other half of the group dropped into “What’s Up Doc” – a narrow steep coulior off the shoulder of Thompson Peak.  On Sunday with 4-6″ new the group headed for the Profile drainage to ski classic lines like “Resurrection” and “Jesus” -  these were featured on the opening spread of the “Backcountry Magazine” article on the Chute School.  Erik lead one group who focused on rope handling and mountaineering skills like building anchors and proper belay and rappel techniques.  The lines flirted with us through the clouds and the new snow tantalized our taste buds.   The north-facing couloirs were holding good powder snow and the group had to manage the steep and tight terrain and sluff.  The whoops, hollers, and high fives at the bottom signaled the thrill of the runs and the culmination of days of technical skill development, inspiring turns, and great camaraderie at the Williams Peak Hut.  Thanks to all for spectacular course!!!

Cheers, Hatch, Erik, and Zach